I have what I think is the ultimate for thwarting airlines that like
to charge for transporting bicycles.  More and more airlines seem to
be charging for taking bikes so I decided to find a solution that
works in all cases.

  Basically it involves fitting your bike into two boxes that don't go
over the size and weight restrictions of the checked luggage
allotments, then taking your real luggage as carry-on.  I realize
that this may not work for everyone.

  All solutions have drawbacks and the drawback for this one is that
you need to disassemble and then re-assemble your bike when you get to
your destination.  Generally this should take about 1 hour to
disassemble and box the bike and about 1 hour to re-assemble it.

  What I do is to take the wheels off the bike, deflate the tires, and
put them side by side (as much as possible) into one box.  I make this
box by going to my local bike store and getting an old bike box and
then cutting the box down so that the tires just fit into it.  Just
cut one side of the box back and There is
also room to put other stuff into this box as there is a lot of room
left, although there isn't room for something big.

  Next I take the fork off and tape it to the frame, and put the
bearings in a plastic bag.  Make sure you take a little grease to
re-grease the bearings when you re-assemble it.  Put a bag over the
top of the fork so that the grease doesn't get all over everything
else.  I also take the rear derailleur off and tape it to the frame.
Then get another box from your local bike store and use this box to
"make" a box to just fit your frame.  To do this you take the box
apart so that it lays flat, then put your frame down on it and with a
pencil, make a
line on the box going around the frame leaving about 2 cm extra.  Try
to make the lines as straight as possible, don't have a lot of small
curves.  Major bends are ok but small bends are not.  Cut this out and
then make another one just like it.  One is for the top and one for
the bottom.  Now measure the width of your frame and add about 2 cm to
it.  Take the bottom piece and lay it on the floor (if the box has
printing on it, face the printing inside so that your finished box
doesn't have any bike printing on it) then cut a strip that is as wide
as your frame and tape it to the bottom piece at a 90 angle.  Use
really strong 2 inch wide clear (or duct) strapping tape and tape it
the whole circumference.  Now set the bike frame in the open box and
put anything else you want to take along like tools, bike pump,
helmet, etc inside the box.  Then put the top on and tape it up the
whole circumference.  You really need to use good tape and lots of it
because if it wasn't for the tape this box would just fall apart.  If
you want, you can form fit a box to hold your frame that is stronger
since it will have cardboard edges on at least some of the edges but
it will take you longer.   You can cut "handles" in the box so that
it's easier to carry.

  Now you just check both of these boxes as your two pieces of luggage
and put all of your clothes, etc in your two pieces of carry-ons.  For
me I just take one pannier as a carry-on.

  I've used this method twice, once in Cuba and and once in Austria
and it's worked great both times.  Both times I took a relatively old
bike and just left it there.  I gave it to a friend in Cuba and gave
it to a charity in Austria.  This saved me the effort of brining it
back.

Tools you need:

two bike boxes in good condition from your local bike store.
hammer
large crescent wrench
Allan metric wrenches
open-ended metric wrenches
an Xacto knife (utility knife) or large scissors for cutting cardboard
roll of wide tape
2 plastic peanut butter jar lids
a two-by-four, about 2 feet long
possibly a Philips screwdriver

  Goals

  The idea here is to make 2 boxes that pass as less than 62 linear
  inches.  This measurement is the addition of the width, height, and
  length of the box.  One box will be odd shape but should pass as
  less than 62 linear inches if you approximate the height and
  length.  Bike boxes are about 8" deep so that leaves about 27" on
  each side.

  Preparation

1. A clean surface, about 12x12 feet.  A clean garage floor maybe.
   Don't do it indoors unless you have something large on the floor that
   will get chain grease on it.
2. A box to put all of the stuff you will remove from your bike that
   you will need to pack.

  Step by step

A.  Get the bike frame ready for the 1st box.

1.  Shift the front and rear derailleurs to the smallest sprockets.
2.  Loosen, but don't remove, the large lock-nut (about 1 1/4 inch
    wide) at the top of the fork, at the bottom of the handle bar stem.
3.  Loosen, but don't remove, the large top fork bearing cup.  This
    sits just below the nut loosened in step #2.
4.  Loosen (about 5 turns), but don't remove, the Allen nut that
    holds the handle stem in.  With a hammer, pound the nut down.
    Turn the handle bars, they should be free.
5.  Remove the wire from each side of the front and rear brakes so
    that the brakes are loose.
6.  Remove the rack if the bike has one.  Put any loose hardware removed
    back on the bike.
7.  Remove the pedals.  The left pedal is removed by going clockwise.
8.  Remove the seat and seat post.
9.  Remove the wheels.
10. take the chain off of the small front sprocket and let it rest on
    the frame crank.
11. Remove the rear derailleur and then, using the wide tape, tape the
    rear derailleur with the chain balled up in between the the two bars
    that slant back to meet at the real wheel axle at the right side of
    the bike.  Put any loose hardware removed back on the bike.
12. Remove the handle bars.  Careful not to stress the cables when
    they dangle.  Eventually, the handle bars sit in the middle of the
    frame, where the water bottle goes.
13. Put the bike down on a clean surface in case loose bearings fall
    out in this step.  Have a large rag or paper towel ready to catch
    them so they don't roll all over.  Remove the items loosened in
    steps #2 and #3,  Slide the fork down keeping an eye on the
    bearings.  Remove the top bearing assembly.  With the fork out,
    re-assemble the fork.  If the bearing are loose, put them in a
    bag, otherwise put the bearings back and put the nuts and
    washers back on.  Wrap the bearings with wide tape at the bottom
    of the fork top.

B. Make the frame box.  When you are done making the box it will look like:


                        ._  
                    D  /  \_ .
                 12"  /       -\__     33"
                     /            \_ .       E
                    /   fork          \-___  
                    \   tube                -._
                     \                         ^-___ 
                      \                              |
                       \                             |
                  18"   \                            | B
                     C   \                           |
                          \                    rear  | 19"
                           \  crank            axle  |
                            \                        |
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -  `-----------------------`
       F                              23"  A

1.  Put the fork in the box so that the rear axle is against one
    side.  Put the crank so that the rear "pedal" is resting on the
    bottom of the box.
2.  With a straight edge and marker, mark an outline for C, D, and E, similar
    to the above, on the inside of just one side, leaving about 1/2" extra.
3.  Remove the frame from the box.
4.  CAUTION: Do cut C but DON'T cut the bottom of the box.  The bottom
    of the box F will fold up and become side C.
5.  Stand the box up-right and mark the other side's C cut with a
    straight edge.
6.  Repeat #4 and #5 for cut D.
6.  Bring bottom side F up to make side C and D, tape it in place at
    side C but not side D.
7.  CAUTION: Don't cut side E.  You need to make a parallel mark using
    a straight edge and marker about 8 inches (the width of the box
    away from the original mark for side E.  Call this mark G (not
    shown above).
8.  Lay the box down so the mark for E is facing down.  Place the 2x4
    on the inside of the box along mark E toward the bottom of the box
    and hold it.  While holding it, bend the cardboard up and make a
    fold at E.
9.  Cut at mark G.
10. Repeat #7-#9 for the other side.

C. Make the wheel box.  This box will be about 26" x 28" x 8".

1.  If you have quick release hubs, remove them.
2.  Put the two wheels together, offset vertically, so they only
    occupy the minimum amount of space horizontally, then place the wheels
    into the other box.
3.  Using a straight edge and marker, mark a vertical line on the
    inside of the box, leaving about 1/2" extra.
4.  CAUTION: Do this cut but DON'T cut the bottom of the box.  The bottom
    of the box will fold up and become the side.
5.  Tape up the new side.
6.  Using the plastic peanut butter jar lids, tape them to the inside
    of the box where the axle contacts the box.  This stops the axle from
    breaking through the box when it gets stacked with 500 pounds of luggage.

D. Pack all of the parts and tools you need for re-assembly in the two
   boxes in heavy plastic bags.  Tape them to the frame or wheel using
   the wide tape.  Using a magic marker cross out anthing printed
   on the box that might lead someone to believe that there is a
   bicycle inside.  Don't forget your helmet.

E. When asked what's in the boxes don't use the word "bicyle" or
   "bike".  Saying either of these words can lead to a $100 charge.
   Say "tools, wheels, and mechanical parts".