IPM Prescriptions for Some Common Invertebrate Pests
Copyright 1995 IPMPA
Following are general IPM prescriptions for some common insect and other invertebrate pests, including aphids, scales, spider mites, root weevils, slugs and
snails, rhododendron lacebugs, tent caterpillars, fall webworms, leafminers, pearslugs, winter moths, thrips, mealybugs, whiteflies, and yellowjackets.
Description and Biology
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects and are most commonly light green,
brown, gray, and black. Thousands of species of aphids exist and,
consequently, vary considerably in color, size, response to environmental
conditions, and host preference. They are typically found clustered on
the undersides of leaves and on stems. The most common group of aphids
lays eggs in protected places on their preferred hosts near the growing
season's end, which overwinter and hatch as females in the spring. From
then until near the end of the growing season, only females are present,
giving live birth to more females, which already have partially formed
females within them. At the end of the growing season males are
produced and females are then born with eggs rather than live young
inside, which are fertilized by the males during mating. Excess sap,
called honeydew, is secreted as they feed and is sweet and sticky. Other
insects, such as ants and honeybees, feed on the honeydew. Some ant
species guard aphid colonies, killing natural aphid predators. The group
known as wooly aphids is seldom a problem, and in fact rarely noticed,
due to chalcid wasp predation. This is true unless populations of the
parasitoid have been reduced as a result of broad spectrum pesticide
use, unfavorable environmental conditions, or guarding by ants.
Target/Host
Numerous plants, especially those with tender leaves and stems which
facilitates feeding. New, succulent growth is preferred.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Aphids suck sap from soft leaf and stem tissue, causing the leaves to
curl. Leaves are often able to outgrow the damage but sometimes become
stunted and deformed. The honeydew often causes sooty mold to develop
on infested plants. Aphids don't typically cause long term damage to
trees. However, they can become a severe nuisance problem when infested
trees are located over parking, picnicking, and other such areas where
the honeydew falls onto vehicles, pavement, seats, etc.
Potential Natural Controls
- "Forces of Nature"
- Because some species alternate between two hosts during the growing
season, a common situation is for large colonies to develop on a plant
species and then virtually disappear as they migrate to the other host.
In the case of feeding on new growth, as the leaf cuticle hardens it is
more difficult for aphids to feed and they move to another host. Plant
leaves are often able to outgrow damage to young leaves. Many species
experience large population declines in hot weather.
- Natural Predators
- Aphids have many natural enemies (i.e., predators, pathogens, and
parasitoids). Predators include lady beetle adults and larvae, brown
and green lacewing larvae, syrphid (hover) flies, gall midges, etc.
Primary parasitoids are various species of parasitic wasps. Also,
during humid conditions, aphids are very susceptible to fungal diseases.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Do not overfertilize plants. Aphid reproduction is accelerated when
nitrogen levels are high. Avoid heavy pruning of highly susceptible
plants in late winter and early spring because this encourages a flush
of new growth high in nitrogen before natural controls are present.
Instead, schedule pruning of these plants later in the growing season
but well before fall arrives. When aging annual plants are infested but
show evidence of sufficient natural enemies, either allow the plants to
remain in place or cut and use as mulch underneath other plantings,
especially those susceptible to aphids. When ants are observed in and
around aphid colonies apply a barrier (e.g., Tanglefoot) around the
trunks of woody plants and make sure other access is restricted, such as
from branches touching the ground or other plants. Ant baits (e.g.,
Combat, Maxforce, boric acid) may also be used if necessary in the
greenhouse.
- Habitat Modification
- Flowering plants can be introduced to provide food for parasitic wasps,
which need pollen and nectar in order to reproduce. Plants that
experience debilitating aphid infestations regularly should be replaced
with less susceptible species.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are known to be particularly susceptible to
aphid infestation (e.g., lupine) as a major design component. If trees
prone to aphid infestation are used, avoid placing ornamental plants
underneath to prevent sooty mold problems. Such trees would best be
used in a large grassy area away from other plants and paved areas,
especially where cars park.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Waterblasting is effective in the case of a few, localized populations.
This method usually requires repeated, frequent applications (every 3 or
4 days). Small colonies can be wiped off by hand. Severely infested
areas of a plant may be pruned off and dropped in a bucket of soapy
water to prevent migration to other plants.
- Biological
- Commercially available biocontrols for aphids include the green
lacewing, predatory gall midge, and lady beetle.
Introduced predators cannot be counted on to eliminate aphid populations
entirely and in some cases, not even significantly because they have a
tendency to devour a small percentage of a large colony and then move on
to a more abundant population. However, aphid midges do not readily
leave the site where they are introduced and are the most promising of
the commercially available aphid biocontrols. Lady beetles have been
observed to migrate quickly from the area where they were released and
other problems have been experienced with their artificial release as
well. Therefore, introduced lady beetles are not particularly
effective. Lacewings that are released as eggs or newly hatched larvae
have also shown good results. Although introduced biocontrol agents can
be used effectively for aphids, it is considered preferable to rely on
native predators by providing habitat for them and not using broad
spectrum insecticides on a wide-scale basis. It is also important to
note that small populations of aphids are actually necessary so that
populations of these natural predators can be supported.
- Chemical
- Insecticidal soap is effective for aphid control when access is
sufficient to allow for good coverage of the population. Spot treatment
with a silica aerogel/pyrethrin mix, pyrethrin/rotenone mix, malathion,
and diazinon is also an option. These treatments are damaging to
natural predators and parasitoids and should not be used if natural
controls can adequately control the population. With very severe
infestations of large trees in areas where extensive honeydew cannot be
tolerated, bark or injection system treatment with a systemic
insecticide such as dimethoate is least disruptive to natural enemies,
other beneficial insects, and the evironment in general.
Monitoring Frequency
Monitor susceptible plants often (at least once a week) while actively
growing in the spring because they are more difficult to control after
large numbers of leaves become curled. Observe most carefully in upwind
areas and places near other infestations. Check undersides of leaves.
Look for evidence of natural predators and disease-killed aphids.
Description and Biology
Scales are sucking insects and are closely related to aphids, mealybugs,
and whiteflies. Newly hatched nymphs, or "crawlers", are mobile for a
brief period of time but after they find a preferred location the
females become sedentary and then build a protective covering where they
develop into adults. The first stage nymphs are pale, flat, six-legged,
and have prominent eyespots. Adult males are winged but are very weak
fliers and only live long enough to mate. Although numerous species
exist, those most commonly found on ornamental plants in the Pacific
Northwest are the brown soft scale, oystershell scale, San Jose scale,
and lecanium scale. Scales can be classified into two basic groups, soft
scales and armored scales. Despite their name, soft scales have a hard
shell which is generally larger and darker than armored scales. Unlike
armored scales, the shell does not lift off the body when the protective
covering is lifted up with a sharp knife. Armored scales are about 3 mm
long and remain attached to the host plant. Soft scales typically have
only one generation each year while most armored scales produce several
generations.
Target/Host
Many woody plant species.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
In small numbers scales do little damage. However, severe infestations
can cause yellowing of leaves, dieback of individual branches, overall
decline of the plant, and even death. Soft scales can excrete
significant amounts of honeydew when population levels are high.
Armored scales do not produce large volumes of honeydew but can be
carriers of some plant diseases and are capable of doing much greater
damage to trees than soft scales. The presence of honeydew typically
results in the occurrence of sooty mold.
Potential Natural Controls
- Natural Predators
- Populations are often sufficiently kept in check by natural enemies,
most important of which are lady beetles and parasitic wasps. Parasitic
wasps often reduce severe infestations to very low numbers. Evidence of
parasitization is seen as holes in the outer covering where adult wasps
have exited. Major scale infestations often occur after application of
broad spectrum insecticides which kill natural enemies. Some ant
species guard scale colonies and kill their natural enemies.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Avoid overfertilization, providing only enough nitrogen to keep plants
healthy, because scale populations increase significantly where nitrogen
levels are high. Proper cultural management should be given to
susceptible plants to ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand
minor infestations and recover from damage that may occur.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are known to be particularly susceptible to
scale infestation as a major design component. If trees prone to scale
infestation are used, avoid placing ornamental plants underneath to
prevent sooty mold problems. Such trees would best be used in a large
grassy area away from other plants and paved areas, especially where
cars park.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Severely infested branches can be pruned off if practical. Where just a
few scales are present, rubbing off the adults with a gloved hand,
toothbrush, or alcohol-dipped cotton swab will prevent further
generations and often keep populations at sufficiently low numbers.
- Biological
- Releases of green lacewings, Chilocorus and Lindorus lady beetles, the
Aphytis parasite, and others can help keep scale populations in check,
however, biocontrols are not sufficient for initial reduction of large
infestations. Where large volumes of honeydew are present on the
affected plants, the beneficials can become impeded by the honeydew and
it is helpful to hose it off with water if an application of
insecticidal soap or oil doesn't reduce it sufficiently. Releases may
be necessary once or twice a year but providing this is done, scale
populations should be able to be kept below tolerance levels with
biocontrols only. When ants are observed in and around scale colonies
apply a barrier (e.g., Tanglefoot) around the trunks of woody plants and
make sure other access is restricted, such as from branches touching the
ground or other plants. Ant baits (e.g., Combat, Maxforce, boric acid)
may also be used as necessary in the greenhouse.
- Chemical
- Insecticidal soap or superior-type oil treatments are necessary in the
case of large infestations. Dormant season application of superior oils
are effective against several scale species, especially San Jose and
lecanium scales. If applied as a delayed dormant (i.e., just prior to
budswell), overwintering mite, aphid, and caterpillar eggs can also be
partially killed. If oils are used during the growing season, care
should be taken to avoid injury to plants, including testing small areas
of a given species before spraying the entire plant. Water stressed
plants should not be treated with oil. In the case of oystershell
scales, oil sprays are not effective during the dormant season because
susceptible stages do not exist at this time. Oils are effective
against both immature and adult oystershell scales when applied between
July and September, with one application usually being adequate.
Application of superior oils during the growing season should be made
under moist conditions when the temperature is below 95F to avoid
phytotoxicity. Insecticidal soap is only effective against immature
scales and therefore timing is important. Treatments with either soap
or oil can be made up to a day or two prior to release of biocontrols.
Good coverage is important, especially with oils. Although
organophosphate and carbamate insecticides are effective against
crawlers, their use is rarely necessary for control of scale due to
availability and effectiveness of the other, less toxic methods.
Monitoring
Scale populations often appear more numerous than they actually are
because the shell remains for some time after the insect has died. To
monitor population levels, lift a given number of scale coverings off to
see how many contain a live scale. Egg masses and newly hatched
crawlers still enclosed within the covering will also be present if the
population is increasing.
Description and Biology
This group of mites, also called webspinning spider mites, include the
Pacific spider mite, twospotted spider mite, strawberry spider mite, and
several other species. Species identification is not necessary because
the damage caused and control measures are the same. They look like
tiny moving dots to the naked eye but can be easily seen with a 10x hand
lens. Adults have eight legs, an oval body, two red eyespots near the
head, a large dark blotch on either side of their body (females), and
are covered with long bristles. The eggs look like tiny water droplets.
They live in large colonies primarily on the undersides of leaves and
produce a silk webbing on infested leaves, which is a primary way to
distinguish them from other mites.
Reproduce rapidly in hot weather, typically reaching their highest
populations June through September. Under favorable conditions a
generation can be produced in less than a week. Prefer hot, dusty
conditions and are therefore often first detected in these areas.
Disperse themselves to other host plants on wind currents. Can feed and
reproduce year-round in warmer areas; otherwise overwinter as red or
orange females underneath rough bark and ground litter. Feeding and
egg-laying resumes in spring as warm weather returns.
Target/Host
Many species of woody and herbaceous ornamental plants.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Damage is caused when the mites suck juices from the leaves; first
observed as a stippling of light-colored dots on the leaves; with; with
further feeding individual leaves turn yellow and drop off. Severely
infested plants often have leaves and twigs covered with webbing. Water
stress exacerbates damage due to more favorable conditions for spider
mites and a drought-stressed, less vigorous plant.
Potential Natural Controls
- "Forces of Nature"
- Populations typically decline rapidly in late summer due to predation,
cooler temperatures, and deterioration of host plants.
- Natural Predators
- Many natural predators, including predatory mites, six-spotted thrips,
spider mite destroyer beetle, larvae of some "flies", and various
general predators (e.g., lacewings, minute pirate bugs, bigeyed bugs).
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Irrigate plants to avoid water stress. Frequent overhead irrigation for
longer than usual has provided effective control in some instances.
This method should not be applied to plants susceptible to fungal
diseases favoring moist conditions (e.g., black spot on roses) due to
likelihood of infection to these plants.
Avoid applying nonselective insecticides, particularly in areas known to
have spider mite problems. "Spider mites frequently become a problem
after application of insecticides . . . Such outbreaks are commonly a
result of the insecticide killing off natural enemies of the mites, but
also occur when certain insecticides stimulate mite reproduction. For
example, mites exposed to carbaryl, methyl parathion, or dimethoate in
the laboratory reproduce many times faster than untreated populations.
Carbaryl, some organophosphates, and some pyrethroids apparently also
favor mites by increasing the level of nitrogen in leaves. Insecticides
applied during hot weather usually appear to have the greatest effect on
mites, causing dramatic outbreaks within a few days." (Flint)
- Habitat Modification
- Minimize dry, dusty conditions where susceptible plants are growing to
the extent possible.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid use of susceptible plants, especially in hot, dusty, unirrigated
areas.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Water blasting of affected plants often sufficiently reduces
populations. Good coverage, especially on undersides of leaves is
important.
- Biological
- Predatory mites (e.g., Metaseiulus occidentalis, Phytoseiulus
persimilis, Amblyseius californicus). For best results, a combination of
species may be released. Concentrate releases in areas of most severe
infestation. More than one application may be necessary. With severe
infestations, treatment with insecticidal soap or a selective miticide
may be necessary to bring the population to levels that can then be
further reduced and kept in check with biocontrols.
- Chemical
- Insecticidal soap, avermectins, and neem have shown effectiveness in
controlling spider mites.
Avermectins have a systemic mode of action, are applied at lower rates
than conventional insecticides, have a low potential for the mites to
develop resistance, and exhibit long residual activity (e.g., two
applications at a seven day interval has provided 79% control for up to
35 days). (Menzies) If necessary, selective miticides (e.g.,
propargite) are less toxic to natural predators.
Description and Biology
Adults are 6-12 mm long and dark brown or black. They are nocturnal and
hide in mulch, leaf litter, ground covers, and in dark places on the
stems of very dense plants during the day. During September to May the
larvae are found in the soil around host plants to a depth of 2-40 cm;
pupation and emergence as adults occurs from May through August; peak
adult population levels occur in July. On average, only one generation
is produced annually.
Target/Host
Rhododendron, viburnum, yew, hemlock, and some other broadleaf
evergreens. Some rhododendrons are resistant to root weevil feeding.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Adults make notches on leaf margins, which is the primary indicator of
the presence of root weevils; however, adult feeding is difficult to
detect on coniferous hosts. Adult feeding can cause extensive aesthetic
damage but usually does not have a significant impact on plant health.
Extensive leaf notching suggests a high population of larvae in the
soil.
Larvae are legless, grublike, C-shaped, white with brown heads, and
approximately 10 mm long. Larvae feed on feeder roots, root bark, and
stems at or below the root crown causing girdling, wilting, decline, and
even death if infestation is severe and not controlled. The most
extensive larval feeding occurs just before pupation in the spring.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Proper cultural management should be given to susceptible plants to
ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand minor infestations and
to aid in recovery from damage that may occur.
- Habitat Modification
- Adults need litter, ground covers, etc. in which to hide. Where
feasible, keep litter cleaned up and remove ground covers altogether or
at least in a one meter diameter area around bases of susceptible
plants.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are known to be particularly susceptible to root
weevil infestation as a major design component. With rhododendrons, use
species/varieties that have shown resistance to root weevil feeding.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Physical
- Exclusion and trapping with a sticky substance (e.g., Tanglefoot) around
trunks of affected/susceptible plants will help exclude adults from the
canopy and reduce leaf notching. Where practical, keep branches from
touching the ground or other objects that could provide access for adult
weevils. This is most practical where susceptible or infested plants
are located singly or in small groups. However, it may also be feasible
for particularly susceptible species/varieties within larger plantings.
When in groups, place the sticky barrier around the trunks of all plants
to be protected; canopies may grow together but prevent lower branches
from touching the ground.
- Biological
- Parasitic nematodes have been effective in keeping populations at
tolerable levels. Apply as a soil drench when soil temperatures and
moisture are sufficient. Timing of applications is less critical than
when using conventional insecticides for larval control. Applications
should be made quarterly as necessary or more frequently if
environmental conditions have not been conducive to nematode survival.
- Chemical
- Pyrethroids, rotenone, and other plant-derived insecticides are
effective against adults. Spray foliage at night, beginning 3-4 weeks
after adults are first detected in the spring and before eggs are laid.
If infestation is very severe, use of a broad spectrum insecticide as a
soil drench may be necessary to gain initial control of larvae; spot
treat. Mature larvae in the spring cause the greatest damage and are
least susceptible to insecticidal control. Therefore, if insecticidal
control of larvae is deemed necessary, treatments should occur before
larvae mature. Neem products may also be systemically effective when
applied as a soil drench.
Monitoring
Monitor for notching by adults in early May through early summer. In
order to observe actual populations on a particular plant and identify
adults, either place a rolled-up piece of burlap around the base of the
plant and examine during the day; or use lights at night and a light
colored sheet or canvas, shaking insects from foliage. Also, adults can
usually be found around infested plants by digging in the surrounding
soil and litter during the day. When determining treatment thresholds,
remember that adults have a large egg laying capacity, and in some cases
even small numbers of larvae can cause significant damage to small
and/or stressed plants.
Description and Biology
Species of slugs and snails are numerous. Introduced species are most
troublesome due to lack of natural enemies and tend to be colonial
whereas native species are solitary. They require moist conditions and
are active at night and on cloudy days, hiding in moist, sheltered
locations during the day. Snails can seal themselves inside their
shells during dry conditions and can remain dormant for up to four
years.
Target/Host
Primarily annual and perennial flowers and bulbs as well as ground
covers. Some species are more preferred than others as food,
particularly English ivy, succulents, and some bulbs.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Serious damage can occur on seedlings, newly emerging perennials and
bulbs, and in some cases, established annual and perennial flowers.
Flowers can also be disfigured and flower buds either deformed or
destroyed.
Potential Natural Controls
- "Forces of Nature"
- Rarely a problem when microclimate conditions are hot and dry, but the
slugs/snails return when conditions become moist again. High
populations of ground beetles and garter snakes also keep slugs and
snails in check.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Dense vegetation of susceptible plants can be thinned out to allow for
air circulation and sunlight penetration. Thick mulches can then be
placed in thinned areas to discourage weed invasion. Some types of
mulches (e.g., rough cedar chips) have been observed to discourage slugs
and snails.
- Habitat Modification
- Keep moist, shady areas to a minimum in and around flower beds. Dense
foliage around the bases of plants can be removed when practical.
Boards, bricks, and other such hiding places laying on top of the ground
should be avoided or removed.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are known to be particularly susceptible to slug
and snail damage as a major design component.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Hand picking can significantly reduce numbers of immature and adult
slugs and snails. Hand picking is most successful at night when slugs
are most active. A combination of hand picking, trapping and barriers
usually provides sufficient control.
- Trapping
- Various trapping methods include using overturned clay flower pots
(these are especially attractive to them if crushed slugs and snails are
kept on the sides of the pots), inverted grapefruit halves (they are
attracted to the citrus and moist, shady conditions), and beer or a
mixture of water and yeast in homemade or commercial traps.
- Barriers
- Several materials have been used as barriers with varying degrees of
success. These include copper, zinc, and salt-impregnated strips; and
dry wood ashes, sawdust, and diatomaceous earth. For barriers to be
effective, care must be taken to keep vegetation, soil, and other
materials from forming "bridges" that allow slugs entry to the protected
area. Barriers are most practical around small planted areas,
particularly raised beds and containers. Excellent success has been
reported with salt impregnated barriers.
- Biological
- Research and field trials have been conducted regarding the use of rove
beetles, protozoans, decollate snails, and ducks and other animals as
biocontrol agents. These are either not yet available or impractical
for effective use as slug and snail biocontrol on large scale landscape
plantings.
- Chemical
- Baits are preferred to broadcast applications of commercially available
poisons for slugs and snails. Baits should be placed in areas of
preferred habitat and well-hidden from children, dogs, and other pets.
Use poisons only where/when other options are not feasible.
Description and Biology
Adults are small (3-6 mm) with netlike veins in the wings which gives
the insect a lacelike appearance, somewhat flattened, and dark brown or
black. The insect overwinters as eggs which are laid in the midrib on
undersides of leaves. Eggs usually hatch sometime in May to early June,
depending on climate and yearly climatic variation. Nymphs are spiny,
dark, and move with a strange sideways motion. Anywhere from one to
three or more generations are produced each year, also depending on
location; one generation per year is most common in the Pacific
Northwest.
Target/Host
Rhododendron spp. and Kalmia latifolia.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Top surfaces of leaves show a yellowish speckling as adults and nymphs
suck sap from underneath; most prominent on rhododendrons grown in full
sun. Brown and black varnishlike "tar spots" from fecal matter will be
present on the undersides of leaves, which is what distinguishes the
presence of lace bugs from other mites and insects that cause similarly
appearing damage to the tops of leaves. It is also typical for the
"skins" of molted nymphs to remain on the undersides of leaves.
Affected leaves retain their yellowed appearance for a year or more and
are less functional. Therefore it is preferred to treat the problem
before it becomes too apparent, particularly in high profile ornamental
plantings.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Proper cultural management should be given to susceptible plants to
ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand minor infestations and
recover from any greater damage that may occur.
- Design and Construction
- Provide optimum growing conditions for plants; avoid planting most
Rhododendron spp. in sunny areas. "High populations of lace bugs, and
consequently higher degrees of damage, occur on azalea and rhododendron
when they grow in sunny rather than shady locations." (Johnson and Lyon)
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- If affecting small areas only, thumb and forefinger can be drawn along
affected leaves to destroy the insects.
- Chemical
- Treat when necessary in late spring when young nymphs are present.
Insecticidal soap has been demonstrated to be effective. In the case of
contact insecticides more than one application may be necessary. If
infestation is very severe a systemic insecticide such as Orthene may be
necessary for initial control. Neem products may also be systemically
effective when applied as a soil drench.
Description and Biology
Overwinter as eggs, with larvae hatching when wild cherry leaves are
unfolding. Young caterpillars move to a major branch fork or crotch and
build a web where they feed on newly opened leaves. After larvae
mature, they leave the host tree and spin a cocoon, where they develop
into reddish brown moths in early to midsummer. One generation occurs
per year.
Target/Host
Maple, alder, hazelnut, hawthorn, ash, apple, cherry, currant, rose,
willow, and other hardwood species. (Prefers apple and cherry.)
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Trees can be completely defoliated during very severe infestations and
may be killed, but this is not common. New foliage is usually produced
and long term damage is rarely serious, only aesthetic.
Potential Natural Controls
- Natural Predators
- A variety of natural control agents attack the immature stages. The most
important parasitic wasps are Tetrastichus malacosomae and Bracon
xanthonotus.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Proper cultural management should be given to susceptible plants to
ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand minor infestations and
recover from damage that may occur.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid locating species known to be particularly susceptible to tent
caterpillars in high profile ornamental areas.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- If accessible, tents and caterpillars can be easily removed with pruners
and destroyed; removal should be timed during cool, rainy weather - the
larvae do not leave the nest then. Egg masses may also be removed
during the winter.
- Biological
- Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) can be used in severe infestations. Repeat
in short cycles to control new larvae as they emerge over time.
Monitoring
Monitor susceptible species in late spring and early summer. If large
populations are observed, remove tents on cool, wet days to prevent even
larger populations the following year.
Description and Biology
Adult moths emerge late spring to midsummer and deposit eggs in
hair-covered masses on undersides of leaves. After hatching, larvae
build silken webs at the ends of branches and feed within them.
Disturbed larvae make jerky movements in perfect rhythm.
Target/Host
Alder, madrone, honeysuckle, apple, poplar, cherry, willow, viburnum
spp. and other hardwoods.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Primarily aesthetic; rarely serious, partly because defoliation occurs
late in the summer when deciduous plants are preparing for winter
dormancy.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Proper cultural management should be given to susceptible plants to
ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand minor infestations and
recover from damage that may occur.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid locating species known to be particularly susceptible to fall
webworms in high profile ornamental areas.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Tents are easy to prune off since they are built on the ends of
branches. Other control measures are rarely necessary.
Monitoring
Monitor susceptible species in late summer. If large populations are
observed, remove webs and larvae to prevent even larger populations the
following year.
Description and Biology
Numerous species whose immature and/or adult stages tunnel and feed
between the upper and lower leaf surfaces are known as leafminers; each
species makes a characteristic pattern of blotches or winding gallery
mines. Species identification is generally not necessary for control as
they are all treated similarly.
Target/Host
Various ornamental trees, including gray and paper birch (European,
river, black, and yellow birches are rarely bothered), elms, alder,
hawthorn.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Heavy infestations can inhibit plant growth, but leafminers are
primarily aesthetic pests on trees. Outbreaks often occur following
insecticide treatments for other pests; treatment is usually not
necessary where wide scale applications of broad spectrum insecticides
have not occurred.
Potential Natural Controls
- Natural Enemies
- Parasitic wasps and natural predators (e.g., ants, true bugs, flies,
lacewings, birds, spiders) usually provide adequate control.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Proper cultural management should be given to susceptible plants to
ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand minor infestations and
recover from damage that may occur.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are susceptible to leafminer damage as a major
design component.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Biological
- A chalcid wasp (Diglyphus isaea) and a braconid (Dacnusa sibirica) are
two commercially available parasitoids for greenhouse situations and may
be useful in outdoor settings.
- Chemical
- Avermectin (e.g., Avid) is a microbially derived insecticide effective
against leaf miners and has little toxicity to their parasites. Neem
oil acts as a repellant to adult leafminers when applied as a foliar
spray and a systemic insect growth regulator (IGR) on larvae when
applied as a soil drench, remaining active within the plant tissue for
three weeks. Minex (methoprene) is an IGR but is only effective within
new plant growth and does not affect adults. Research has also
indicated positive results for leafminer control with horticultural
oils. Conventional chemical insecticides have become largely
ineffective due to development of resistance as a result of overuse.
Description and Biology
Larvae are yellow; 11 mm long and tadpole-shaped with widest part of
body at head end; covered with slimy olive-green secretion. Adults are
shiny black sawflies with shaded wings; 7 mm long; and they first appear
shortly after cherries and pears are in full leaf. Two generations per
year are produced with adults emerging in early spring and laying eggs
in leaf tissue; eggs hatch within two weeks; immature larvae feed on
upper leaf surfaces for about three weeks; mature larvae drop to the
ground and pupate in soil; and a second generation in late July to early
August is produced with these pupae overwintering.
Target/Host
Prunus spp. and mountain ash.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Top surfaces of leaves are eaten, causing pinkish or brown patches.
Leaves may be skeletonized with continued feeding. Entire tree appears
scorched during heavy infestations. Young trees are preferred. Second
generation larvae cause the greatest damage.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are susceptible to pearslug damage as a major
design component.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual/Physical
- Small numbers can be hand picked if accessible (small trees) and water
blasting may also be effective. Ash, road dust, etc. has been applied
to foliage to desiccate the pest; wash off after five days to prevent
spider mite infestation.
- Mechanical
- Shallow cultivation (5 cm maximum) in spring when cherries and pears
come into full bloom helps reduce first generation larvae and fall
cultivation will minimize overwintering larval population. Cultivation
after the larvae drop to the ground will also help reduce population.
Local practitioners and government agents can give more detailed timing
information for the local area. Practical on a limited scale where
affected trees are planted in a mulched area.
- Chemical
- Rotenone. Insecticidal soaps may also be effective. Diazinon and Sevin
should only be necessary with very severe infestations. Systemic tree
injections may be more desirable than canopy sprays.
Monitoring
Monitor most carefully for population levels and damage caused by second
generation in late July to early August; they do the most damage.
Description and Biology
A looper; fully grown larvae are light green with dark brown heads,
three yellow stripes along each side of the body, a dark mid-dorsal
longitudinal line, and are about 2 cm long; they crawl in the same
manner as "inch worms".
Male moths have fully developed wings; light brown-gray forewings; paler
hind wings; and have a wingspan of approximately 3.2 cm. Female moths
are wingless and grayish brown. Eggs are laid on tree trunks and limbs
in late fall where they overwinter, hatching in late winter to early
spring. Newly hatched larvae crawl to feeding locations or are carried
on silken threads by wind currents. Larvae hatch in late winter and
feed on buds, leaves, and flowers. Pupation occurs in June and July
with adults appearing in late October. A single generation is produced
each year.
Target/Host
Many trees and shrubs, including birch, flowering cherries, maple, plum,
poplar.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Larvae begin feeding in early April to late May. Defoliation may occur
with severe infestations.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Proper cultural management should be given to susceptible plants to
ensure they are adequately healthy to withstand minor infestations and
recover from damage that may occur.
- Design and Construction
- Avoid using plants that are susceptible to winter moth damage as a major
design component.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Physical
- Females can be trapped as they crawl up trunks to lay eggs by placing
two 15 cm wide sticky bands 30 and 60 cm above the ground in late
October. Replace lower band as it gets filled with debris and moths or
dries out. Remove all bands in February and burn.
- Biological
- Two parasites have been introduced into Canada and are providing control
- Cyzenis albicans, a tachinid fly, and Agrypon flaveolatum, an
ichneumonid wasp. (Davidson and Lyon) Both were released in British
Columbia in the early 1980's and are now well-established. An
augmentation program to increase populations of native predators on
Vancouver Island has also been reported.
- Chemical
- Insecticidal soap, methoxychlor, or Ambush are effective in early April
when apple blossom buds are in the pre-pink stage. For heavy
infestations a second treatment may be necessary after apples bloom.
Monitoring
When sticky bands on tree trunks are used, monitor periodically
throughout the winter to make sure they are still in place and
functional. Determine if chemical treatments are necessary in the spring
during vulnerable periods (see chemical strategy above).
Description and Biology
Thrips are barely visible, 5 mm or less long, insects that cluster along
veins on the undersides of leaves. Their fecal spots and plant damage
are usually more apparent than the thrips themselves. Adults have two
pairs of wings that are fringed and normally held over and parallel to
the body. Active feeding occurs during the adult and larval stages.
Most species spend prepupal and pupal stages in the ground during a
resting period. Species feed on either plants or other insects and
mites. Some plant-feeding thrips are also predaceous and play a
beneficial role in reducing spider mite populations.
Target/Host
Various greenhouse plants.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Thrips scrape leaf surfaces and feed on the juices, causing white or
brown scars and distorted leaves.
If infestation is heavy, entire leaves become brownish or silver and
look dried rather than wilted, similar to damage from windburn. Some
species produce large amounts of black, soot-like specks of fecal matter
on the leaves.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Cultural Management
- Vigorous, healthy plants are normally capable of outgrowing damage by
thrips. Dry plants are most likely to be attacked; ensure plants have
adequate water and irrigate from overhead.
- Habitat Modification
- Periodic flooding of greenhouse floors will drown thrips that are
pupating in the ground. Maintain a diversity of vegetation outside
greenhouses and don't allow these plants to dry out. This provides
habitat for thrips outdoors and decreases the likelihood of migration
and the development of large populations inside.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Waterblasting knocks thrips off of infested plants and increases inside
moisture.
- Physical
- Research has indicated that aluminum foil mulches placed closely around
plant stems both disorients them due to the bright, reflective light and
also act as a barrier to species that drop to the ground to pupate.
Other materials such as plastic, roofing paper, and kraft paper can be
placed underneath benches to decrease pupation also.
- Biological
- Commercially available biocontrols for thrips are predatory mites,
lacewings, and Orius spp. It may take a few months to see evidence of
control with predatory mites. Lacewings are particularly useful for
controlling thrips that do not pupate in the ground. Orius spp. are
reported to be quite effective.
- Chemical
- Insecticidal soap and horticultural oils are helpful in reducing
populations before biocontrols are released and for spot treatment of
"hot spots". Sulfur dust has also been effective but is phytotoxic to
some plants. Western flower thrips frequently become resistant to
conventional insecticides.
Monitoring
Bright blue or yellow sticky traps in the form of cards or ribbon are
used to detect thrips before significant damage occurs (yellow is most
reliable). Place cards on stakes in individual pots or hang ribbons
vertically so the top is approximately 0.75 meters and bottom is several
centimeters above the plants.
Description and Biology
Soft, oval, and usually covered with a white or gray mealy wax. Closely
related to soft scales. Overwinter as nymphs or eggs. Adult males are
winged but only live a few days and are rarely seen. Suck plant juices
and produce honeydew like scales and aphids. Feed in dense colonies
which appear as white, sticky clusters when populations are high.
Reproduction can be rapid when natural predators are not present.
Target/Host
Many ornamental tree and shrub species in addition to other greenhouse
plants.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
During heavy infestations large amounts of wax and honeydew are produced
and coat plants. Black sooty mold is also usually associated with the
honeydew. Some plants may drop their leaves and become stunted or even
die if the infestation is severe.
Potential Natural Controls
- "Forces of Nature"
- Populations often drop substantially during summer because mealybugs are
sensitive to heat.
- Natural Predators
- Parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and syrphid flies normally
keep mealybug populations low outdoors, but these natural enemies are
often not present at all or in insufficient numbers in greenhouse
environments to do so.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Habitat Modification
- A quarantine area should be established for infested plants to prevent
the insects from moving to unaffected plants.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Manual
- Pruning of infested parts of plants is feasible if the population is
small and not too many plants are affected.
- Physical
- Screening and sealing of cracks and holes prevents mealybugs and other
pests from entering and also keeps biocontrols inside. Construct or
modify plant benches or shelves with ant-proof barriers so that ants
cannot protect mealybugs from biocontrol agents.
- Biological
- The mealybug destroyer, or "crypt", is an introduced beetle usually
present naturally in warm winter areas and is also available
commercially for artificial release. Both adult and larvae feed on all
stages and all species of mealybugs; the larvae somewhat resemble
mealybugs and should not be mistaken for them. Multiple releases may be
necessary.
If the citrus mealybug, the most common mealybug on greenhouse plants,
is the primary problem releases of the tiny parasitic wasp Leptomastix
dactylopii can also be released along with mealybug destroyers. This
parasite is specific to citrus mealybugs only.
Green lacewings will feed on mealybugs but are not preferred. If
lacewings are used, it should not be in conjunction with other
biocontrol agents because they will prey on them also. It is especially
important to keep ant populations low because they feed on the honeydew
and prevent mealybug destroyers and natural enemies from destroying the
mealybugs.
- Chemical
- If only a few mealybugs are present, they may be rubbed off with a
cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap is useful to
reduce large infestations prior to releasing biocontrols and for spot
treatment of hot spots after biocontrols have been released. Also, a
2% horticultural oil solution in water will provide control.
Mealybugs are difficult to control completely with contact insecticides
due to their waxy covering and their habit of hiding in difficult to
reach places on the plants. Delayed dormant treatment timing is most
effective; young nymphs don't have the protective waxy coating that
protects older nymphs and adults.
Monitoring
Monitor for evidence of mealybugs and begin control measures immediately
upon observing their presence. Once observed monitor the population
regularly to determine effectiveness of control measures and the need
for further action.
Description and Biology
Whiteflies are tiny insects that suck sap from plants and are closely
related to aphids, scales, and mealybugs. Warm weather causes rapid
development and populations can build up very quickly then if natural
enemies are not present. Breeding takes place throughout the year.
Eggs are tiny, oblong, and usually laid on undersides of leaves.
Crawlers (first stage nymphs) are very tiny and hard to see even with a
hand lens.
After molting they lose their legs and antennae, are oval and flattened
like small scale insects, and become immobile; these are called scales.
They go through complete metamorphosis with a distinct pupal stage.
Adults are flying insects and most species are whitish yellow with dull
white wings. Clouds of the adults fly into the air when infested plants
are disturbed.
Target/Host
Wide range of host plants, especially begonias, coleus, fuchsias,
primulas, poinsettias, salvia, and verbena.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Some plants are able to tolerate considerable numbers of whiteflies
while others are very susceptible to damage.
Larvae excrete honeydew which may be produced in large volumes if
infestations are severe; plants become covered with the sticky substance
along with black sooty mold. Large populations can cause leaves to
yellow, wilt, appear dried out, become stunted, and/or drop off the
plant.
Potential Natural Controls
- Natural Enemies
- Many natural enemies keep whitefly populations in check outdoors if they
have not been destroyed by broad spectrum insecticides, dust buildup,
and other factors. Lacewings, bigeyed bugs, and minute pirate bugs are
general predators that consume whiteflies and they also have several
naturally occurring parasites. The degree of parasitization can be
determined by checking for round or oval holes in empty pupal cases
where the parasites have exited rather than a T-shaped hole caused by
the emergence of healthy adults. The color of pupae also often
indicates whether parasitization has occurred; healthy pupae are evenly
white or yellow while parasitized ones are usually black or dark orange.
However, some whiteflies of ornamental plants have black pupae.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Physical
- Sticky traps are very effective at trapping adults. However, they
should be taken down when populations are low and biocontrols are used
because the biocontrol agents have a tendency to be attracted to the
traps when the whitefly population drops. Place the traps close to
affected plants. Commercial sticky traps are available and they can also
be easily made with 1/4 in. plywood, masonite, or cardboard painted
bright yellow and coated with one part petroleum jelly or mineral oil
and one part household detergent. It is important to keep the traps
clean.
- Manual
- Leaves that are heavily infested with larvae and pupae can be removed
and destroyed in order to help reduce populations to a level that can be
controlled with biocontrols.
- Mechanical
- Small, hand held vacuum cleaners can be effective at removing adults off
leaves and sticky traps. This must be done in early morning or other
times when temperatures are cool because the whiteflies are sluggish and
unable to move out of the way quickly enough. Placing the used vacuum
bag in a plastic bag and freezing it overnight will kill the whiteflies
inside.
- Biological
- Encarsia formosa is a parasitoid specific to whiteflies and has been
used effectively for over 50 years. Whitefly populations should be
reduced to no more than one adult per leaf prior to releasing Encarsia.
Greenhouses should be screened and other cracks and holes filled to keep
the Encarsia inside. Best results are obtained when environmental
conditions can be controlled to favor Encarsia over the whiteflies;
optimum conditions are 27C, 70% relative humidity, and a light intensity
greater than 650 footcandles. In some cases, optimum conditions for the
Encarsia have been reported to conflict with optimum conditions for the
plants being grown (e.g., poinsettias).
- Chemical
- Insecticidal soap is effective with good coverage of the plants,
including the undersides of the leaves. Insecticidal soaps can be
phytotoxic to some plants, especially if applied during hot
temperatures; apply when temperatures are cool.
Kinoprene (Enstar) is a growth regulator that affects only whiteflies
and aphids and works well in conjunction with the establishment of
Encarsia formosa. A 2% solution of horticultural oil in water may also
be used. Conventional insecticides are harmful to biocontrols and most
are not very effective due to the ability of whiteflies to quickly
develop resistance.
Monitoring
Adults are usually found near the tops of plants or the ends of branches
and other lighter green foliage. The eggs are visible to the naked eye
and are laid in a circle, usually on the undersides of leaves. Larvae
and pupae are also found on the undersides of the older, lower leaves.
The scale stage is very difficult to see because they are almost
translucent unless parasitized, which causes them to turn a dark color.
Description and Biology
Yellowjackets can be distinguished from other stinging insects by their
appearance, nest construction, and behavior. They have stout bodies
with black and bright yellow bands around their bodies. Nests are
characteristically formed and multi-layered, covered with a paper-like
material, and usually located in the ground, although sometimes aerial.
They are rapid fliers and social insects that live in large colonies
which are defended vigorously. Any disturbance around the nest can
provoke mass swarm attacks, especially late in the summer. They
scavenge for meat or other foods rich in protein or sugary and are
commonly found around picnic tables, garbage cans, animal carcasses, etc.
Target/Host
People in the vicinity of nests and food sources.
Symptoms/Typical Damage
Can be aggressive towards humans, especially when picnicking or near
other food sources. They are most likely to sting away from the nest in
late summer to early fall. Individuals are capable of inflicting
multiple stings, unlike bees which can only sting once. Yellowjackets
are the only aggressive species of the group including wasps, bees,
yellowjackets, and hornets. These other species only sting as a
defensive measure when they feel threatened.
Potential Natural Controls
- Natural Predators
- Skunks, raccoons, badgers, and other wildlife help keep populations down
in areas where adequate habitat is available. The East Bay Regional
Park District in Oakland, California has had some success in
intentionally using such wildlife for yellowjacket control by dripping
honey around entrance holes to nests at the end of the day to attract
the wildlife.
Potential Indirect Treatment Strategies
- Habitat Modification
- Ensure that food waste is disposed of in garbage cans that have tight
fitting and, preferably, self-closing lids. Keep outsides of garbage
cans clean and empty garbage regularly. Concessions selling soft drinks
may include lids and straws with the cups to minimize attracting
yellowjackets and to prevent them from entering the cups and being
drank, especially during August and September when yellowjackets are
most numerous. Pickup garbage more frequently during this time of year.
At Great Falls National Park in Virginia, populations were reduced by
96% just by using lids for soft drinks, using appropriate garbage
receptacles, and picking up garbage more frequently.
Potential Direct Treatment Strategies
- Physical
- Several traps are commercially available. Baits that attract
yellowjackets include meat scraps, pet food, and toward the end of
summer, spoiled fruit, jelly, and syrups. In areas where populations
are high, mass trapping can reduce numbers to levels that do not cause
significant problems. A drawback to traps in public settings is the
potential for children to play with or near the traps and get stung.
- Manual
- Locate the nest and remove or destroy. It is essential to wear
protective clothing while doing this and is best performed with the help
of a professional or someone else skilled in yellowjacket nest removal.
- Mechanical
- Vacuuming of nests is useful in wall voids and during emergencies when
the nest has already been disturbed. Protective clothing must be worn
and two people are needed to perform the operation; one to do the
vacuuming and another to excavate the nest and look for auxiliary exit
holes. Complete removal of the nest should follow. This is also best
left to people who have experience in handling yellowjackets.
- Biological
- Experimentation is being conducted at the East Bay Regional Park
District in Oakland, California in using parasitic nematodes in
yellowjacket bait, which are then taken back to the nest.
- Chemical
- Various insecticides can be used to destroy nests if other measures such
as physical removal are not chosen. These include pyrethrin/rotenone,
pyrenone, resmethrin aerosols, and baits containing carbaryl or
encapsulated diazinon (e.g., Knoxout).
Studies also indicate silica aerogel dust and pyrethrin (e.g., Drione,
Revenge), methoprene, and avermectin are also effective for use in
baits. One baiting method is to treat steel wool with an insecticidal
dust and plug holes to nests. The yellowjackets from both inside and
out chew on the material and die.
Monitoring
Traps may be placed in safe locations for the purpose of monitoring
yellowjacket population levels and locations.
Last Modified: Monday, August 14, 1995 - 3:25:43 PM
Source: IPM Access - An Integrated Pest Management Online Service
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